We too will be in Scandanavia (Oslo) (and London) soon- we fly out Thursday night. The guys who paid for it would say it was a good investment — so foreboding, nobody attacked Salzburg for a thousand years. Swans patrol the lake like they own it. It's also a musical mecca, and the city puts on a huge annual festival as well as constant concerts. Hallstatt's Catholic church overlooks the town from above. Since the views from the fortress are more exciting than the exhibits, it makes sense to visit late in the day, when admission is much cheaper (and for a bit after the museums' closing time, depending on the season, you can walk up and enter the grounds for free). Rent bills are sent out about every 10 years. Is that right? His goal? Herr Sporer: Apple and pear. All over Europe I enjoy evocative cemeteries. Salt — so precious as a preservative in pre-refrigerator days — was a huge part of this region's economy all the way back to pre-historic times. The town's decorative woodwork, a tradition that dates back centuries, reflects the wealth salt brought. They dissolved it into a brine, which flowed through miles of pipes — the oldest hewn out of logs — to Hallstatt and nearby towns where the brine was, and still is, cooked until only the salt remained. Wolf Dietrich was raised in Rome, counted the powerful Medicis in Florence as his buddies, and had grandiose Italian ambitions for Salzburg. In Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on:. It's Austria's Salzkammergut lake district, where the "the hills are alive," and you're surrounded by the scenic wonder that has enthralled nature lovers from Emperor Franz Josef to Julie Andrews. Rick: Good. With around eight million visitors prowling its cobbled lanes each year, Salzburg can feel pretty touristy. It's the easiest and best experience if you have an iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch, or Android. Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and money; Short itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the Romantic Road, the Rhine Valley, and Berlin, plus Salzburg, Austria; Rick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist traps; The best of local culture, flavors, and haunts, including walks through museums and atmospheric neighborhoods Austria Reviews. In Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg you'll find only the best of those two cities — admittedly a tough call! Wealthy as those guys were, when they ran out of caring relatives, they were dug up, shipped out, and their fancy tombstones ended up on the wall. To get to the Panoramabar from the main part of the library, you take a diagonally-moving elevator, which was a new experience for me. In the tour you'll learn the story of salt. Space in Hallstatt's well-tended graveyard was so limited that bones had only about 12 peaceful, buried years here before making way for the freshly dead. Though I don’t consider it my job to breathlessly promote every destination that comes down the pike…rather, I try to give hard opinions in the spirit of the king of hard travel opinions, Rick Steves. see our FAQ. Rick: And what is schnapps? The energetic Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich, who ruled around the year 1600, had the greatest impact on the town. The Mozart family was successful enough to entertain Salzburg's high society in this fine room. Most of the happy tourists probably wouldn't be here if not for the man honored by this statue. Things Italian were respected and in vogue. Back then, salt was so precious because it preserved meat, and Hallstatt was, as its name means, the "place of salt.". He has a mysterious mansion at the edge of town, sponsors the local “Red Bull” soccer and hockey teams, owns several chic Salzburg eateries and cocktail bars, and employs 6,000 mostly good-looking people. Does that sound reasonable as far as timing? Then home. Very much worth it is the train ride to Prien am Chiemsee, from there on to Schloss Herrenchiemsee and Frauenwörth Abbey - this trip can also be done just as easily from Munich. If you have yet to tour a salt mine, consider visiting Hallstatt's, which is still active, producing 1.1 million tons of salt each year (mostly used for road salt, though you can also buy souvenir shakers of table salt). We have been traveling “Rick’s style” for 20+ years and love it. Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Are you an author? I hope you've enjoyed exploring this part of Austria — with the high culture and history of Salzburg, and the natural splendor of the Salzkammergut lake district. And while you await your strudel, you can feed the swans. The tiny train station is across Lake Hallstatt from the postcard-pretty town by the same name: Hallstatt. Salt could be shipped from here down to the Danube and beyond. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol book. They're popular with big-city families who want the opportunity to stay on a farm, to learn to ride, and just get away from the intensity of urban life. Nine years later, a little boy was born — Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Rick: And when is the normal when time you would drink schnapps in Austria? The town, which originated as a salt-mining center, is one of Europe's oldest, going back centuries before Christ. Salzburg is a world-class destination for live musical performances. Family of five (two young adults, one teen) Stuttgart and Munich advice. In fact, because of the salt-mining importance here, an entire age — the Hallstatt Era, from about 800 B.C. Archaeologists claim that since 7000 B.C., people have come here to get salt. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling in Munich, Bavaria, and Salzburg. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. On balmy summer evenings, this brewery has the ambience of a Renoir painting as all generations gather under the chestnut trees, as they have for centuries, to enjoy cheap food, good beer, and that special local coziness called "Gemütlichkeit." Prost! Herr Sporer: Yes, there are many fruits in Austria and we distill almost everything. The countryside around Salzburg has plenty of farmhouse B&Bs. The next day, in Salzburg we parked our bikes at the Augustinian monastery where, once upon a time, the monks (must have been the most popular monks in town) brewed a heavenly beer. Rick Steves has spent 100 days every year since 1973 exploring Europe. Salzburg remained an independent state for over a thousand years — until it surrendered to Napoleon. If you'd like to commune with nature in a uniquely Austrian way, Salzburg is the ideal jumping off point for spectacular countryside to the south. We're heading two hours southeast of Salzburg to my favorite Salzkammergut town on my favorite Salzkammergut lake. ▲▲ Salzburg Museum Best place for city history. It seems each plot is lovingly tended by relatives. ▲▲ Salzburg Cathedral Glorious, harmonious Baroque main church of Salzburg. St. Peter's Cemetery Atmospheric old cemetery with mini-gardens overlooked by cliff face with monks' caves. For generations, the traditional salt miners' band has entertained their town. Different strokes, I guess. If you look at the map of Austria, the closest big city to it is Linz, which is pretty much 1/2 way in between Vienna and Salzburg. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Posted on July 23, 2006 December 2, 2013. These canals powered about 100 watermills in Salzburg, which were busily cranking as late as the 19th century. In the year 700, its Bavaria rulers gave control of Salzburg to the local bishop in return for his promise to defend and expand Christianity in the area. In good Baroque style, the art is symbolic, cohesive, and theatrical...creating a kind of festival procession that leads to the resurrected Christ triumphing high above the altar. Surveying the town, you can imagine Salzburg through the ages. They're cooked up fresh and simple and served with a nice Austrian dry white wine. Rich guys' fine Renaissance-style tombs decorate the chapel walls. Getting a beer is fun in itself. In the 13th century, Salzburg was plumbed with a clever canal system, which has brought water into Salzburg from nearby hills ever since. Tucked away in the heart of the Old Town and abutting the rock wall of Mönchsberg is St. Peter's Cemetery. Today, the people of Salzburg are happy to pay a premium for the reliably fresh and top-quality produce. This one dates from 1597. Rick: OK. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting Salzburg and Hallstatt.Rick covers the essentials, including Berchtesgaden and the Salzkammergut. Do you have a favorite? Thanks for joining us. The fun-loving, proud, and English-speaking Sporer family pours homemade spirits for regular customers and curious visitors alike. ▲▲ Hellbrunn Palace Lavish palace on the outskirts of town featuring gardens with trick fountains. A highlight is riding miner-style from one floor down to the next...praying for no splinters. Today, these riverside paths are much enjoyed providing easy access to the surrounding countryside. Through the centuries, Hallstatt was busy with the salt trade. Each of the several hundred painted skulls has been lovingly named, dated, and decorated. — is named for this once-important spot. And the Steckerlfisch...now that's my kind of fish stick! Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. Good ones, like this one near the town of Werfen; give you a chance to experience the richness of Austria's rural life. From our home base in Salzburg, we side trip into the Salzkammergut lake district — Lake Hallstatt and the town by the same name. Thanks for joining us. The Weissacher family rents a couple of simple yet comfy rooms to supplement their farm income. Rick Steves' Europe. ▲▲ Hohensalzburg Fortress Imposing mountaintop castle, with small museums, commanding views, and concerts most evenings. Music and the visual art complement each other. The same two men were there that served us in 2013. Alfred claims an hour on the lake is worth a day of vacation. Fair enough. A briny spring sprung here, attracting Bronze Age people. It was the harnessing of wind and water power with mills like this that helped kick the economy into gear and lift Europe out of what many call the "Dark Ages." The other couple chose the restaurant and it was Wilder Man. This fountain could be straight out of Italy. Rick Steves' Europe. Herr Sporer: Schnapps is distilled fruits. The organ loft fills the church with glorious sounds as Mozart, 250 years after his birth, is still powering worship with his musical genius. Set your sights on the spire of the Augustinian Church, and you'll find what seems like half of Salzburg feasting and drinking. Rick Steves' guidebooks are the first I turn to when I get ready to plan a trip, and this one is really just excerpts (word for word) from the Germany and Austria ones, but since Munich, Fussen and Salzburg are my destinations for that area this book works perfectly. Since it had no road access, people came and went by boat. In Salzburg we'll explore its delightful Old Town, enjoy Mozart in a palace, and relax in a sun-dappled beer garden. But his later residence, the Mozart Wohnhaus, across the river, offers a better exhibition on his life and times. Since it was built in only about 15 years, the church boasts particularly harmonious art and architecture. see our FAQ. You go to experience a town that, in spite of the crowds, is thoroughly enjoyable. Rick Steves Best of Germany: With Salzburg Hit Germany's can't-miss art, sights, and bites in two weeks or less with Rick Steves Best of Germany! One fun way to get a good dose of nature with a jolt of speed is on a Sommerrodlebahn. Smaller text Larger text. Behind the church, in the well-tended graveyard, is the 12th-century Chapel of St. Michael (even older than the church). Herr Sporer: And it's very typical for this area. That was the idea. Rick Steves' Europe. Those Augustinians must have been the most popular monks in town for their rollicking beer garden. Red Bull Hangar-7 — Salzburg’s big personality these days is the tycoon founder of Red Bull energy drink, Dietrich Mateschitz. It’s known for its hilltop fortress, Baroque architecture, old town, and hometown genius, Mozart. There were major salt mines just upstream. When it's cool outside, enjoy a historic indoor setting in any of several beer-sloshed and smoke-stained halls (one of which is still for smokers). You don't throw it down, you sip it. Today, its three floors house rooms with exhibits displaying paintings, letters, personal items, and lots of facsimiles, all attempting to bring life to the Mozart story. If you dug under these buildings, you'd find Roman and pre-Roman Celtic pavement stones from the ancient and prehistoric salt depot. The square was ringed by blacksmiths, bakers, and craftsmen. Salzburg's mighty castle offers incredible views in both directions, cafés, and a handful of mediocre museums. Lying on a busy trade route connecting northern Europe with the south, Salzburg was well aware of the exciting things going on in Italy. Pondering the old-time signs — which were advertising back in the days when most shoppers couldn't read — you can almost imagine strolling here looking for a sturdy pair of boots, a stylish dirndl, or even a little schnapps. The one in Strobl near Wolfgangsee is about twice as long, and more scenic, with grand lake views. Austria — with its Germanic passion for quality — is enthusiastic about organically grown fruits and vegetables. You don't go to Salzburg to avoid the tourists. This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. Herr Alfred Lenz makes the town's traditional boats from a 200-year-old design. At the mine, visitors slip into overalls, meet their guide, and hike into the mountain. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Idyllic and majestic, but not rugged, it's a gentle land of lakes, forested mountains, and storybook villages rich in hiking and biking opportunities. Herr Sporer: Apple and pear, yes. Mozart spent a good part of his childhood on the road, performing all over Europe. Zum wohl! Until next time...keep on travelling. Terms of Service | Privacy, Upcoming Holidays and Festivals in Austria, Music Appreciation for Travel: Part II Then, get set to fly. Home / Blog; Salzburg. And way back when Wolfgang was still practicing his scales, Salzburg's busy open-air produce market gave farmers the chance to sell directly to locals. Inside Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find: Comprehensive coverage for spending two weeks or more exploring Vienna, Salzburg and Tirol Rick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites Its bone chapel — or charnel house (Beinhaus) — contains more than 600 skulls (free to enter church, but small fee for bone chapel; open daily May–Sept 10:00–18:00, Oct 10:00–16:00, closed Nov–April). Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. The Triton matches Bernini's famous Triton Fountain in Rome. Enter the cathedral and you're immersed in pure Baroque grandeur. It's simple: push to go, pull to break...a treat for kids of all ages. The Catholic church overlooks the town from above. This square, with its striking cathedral and Italian-style palace was the centerpiece of his Baroque dream city. Herr Sporer: We're always busy because we're very old traditional shop in the Getreidegasse. Old Salzburg's busy and colorful main drag was, and still is, Getreidegasse. The building itself, bombed in World War II, is a reconstruction. For centuries, Salzburg's leaders were both important church authorities and political rulers. The core of this book is five self-guided walks and tours that zero in on Munich's greatest sights and neighborhoods, plus two chapters on the best day trips (to Salzburg and to Neuschwanstein Castle). Access is quick and easy from the Old Town by funicular. Herr Sporer: You sip it, yes. The hills are alive with the sound of music... …was named after this once-important spot. While the bone chapel is fascinating...there's more life down on the town square. Rick: So there's many different kinds of schnapps? Salzburg's wealth was based on salt. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who was the cathedral organist for two years, was born in this house in 1756. The skulls resting on Bibles are those of the town's priests. Then train to Vienna for 3-4 nights. ▲ Mirabell Gardens and Palace Beautiful palace grounds and concert venue with fine views and Sound of Music memories. It was here that he composed most of his boy-genius works. Throughout the region, ski runs earn their keep in the summer as luge courses. Salzburg and Surroundings - Rick Steves’ Europe In Salzburg, be sure to explore its delightful old town filled with Mozart history and relaxing beer gardens; then settle into a … Buy your token, choose a mug —two choices: big and HUGE, give it a rinse…and fill 'er up. If you're driving between Salzburg and Hallstatt, you'll pass two luge rides operated by the same company; each course is just off the road with easy parking. Share hotel & restaurant reviews. This family portrait shows Mozart with his sister — he was proud of his first-ever compositions for four hands, his father (also a fine musician and composer), and his mother, who died two years earlier in Paris. By Rick Steves Rather than visit the real-life sights from the life of Maria von Trapp and family, most tourists in Salzburg want to see the places where Julie Andrews and company were filmed performing the Hollywood version of the former almost-nun's story. It's Sunday morning. ▲ DomQuartier Museums Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich's Residenz palace, cathedral viewpoint, and religious art. The Sporer family has been distilling schnapps and selling it from this friendly hole in the wall for just over a hundred years. Sitting in the center of Europe is Austria. Waiters only bring beer; they don't bring food — instead, go up the stairs, survey the hallway of deli counters, grab a tray, and assemble your own meal (or, as long as you buy a drink, you can bring in a picnic — many do). Allow about three hours total for the round-trip funicular ride, viewpoint visit, and 1.5-hour salt-mine tour. By Rick Steves Hohensalzburg Fortress looms 400 feet above Salzburg's forest of Baroque spires. Last time I stayed in the Hotel Elephant, and it was very good, small rooms, central and it had air conditioning..which many in old bldgs do not have. Mozart performed for the prince-archbishop right here. Its name basically means "salt fortress." They're reminders of the 1800s, when the first Romantic Age poets and painters discovered this region. we drove from Salzburg; it was easy (something like under 2 hours, as I recall), but do know people who did it by train. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol Paperback – April 4, 2017 by Rick Steves (Author) › Visit Amazon's Rick Steves Page. That's because in Austria, grave sites are rented, not owned. Follow me for a little walk and enjoy a rare opportunity to drill deep into the mausoleum of a prince-bishop. Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. Home Salzburg Hallstatt Dolomites Fussen Lauterbrunnen Valley Chamonix Salzburg's Hohensalzburg Fortress ... Salzburg of course is the birthplace of Mozart and known for music. This huge 1,000-seat beer garden within a monk-run brewery in the Kloster Mülln, is rustic and raw. Pop into the fishery — two men have a license to harvest the lake of its plankton-fed Reinanke fish — much prized by local restaurants. While much of the new part of town — on the far side of the river — was destroyed by WWII bombs, the historic Old Town survived. Everything you need is here. Rick: But this is after breakfast and you're still quite busy. and staying 2-3 nights (2 full days). Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Salzburg. ▲ Mönchsberg Walk "The hills are alive" stroll you can enjoy right in downtown Salzburg. Lovable Hallstatt is a tiny town bullied onto a ledge between a mountain and a swan-ruled lake. The grand cathedral ( where Mozart performed ) and Mozart ’ s known for its Music are. 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